Roccia Nera

From Mount Wiki

Jump to: navigation, search

Roccia Nera
Schwarzfluh (de)

Photo of the Roccia Nera
Roccia Nera normal route seen from the S

General
Elevation 4,075 m13,369.423 ft
2.532 miles
Location Valais, Switzerland
Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Breithorn-Liskamm Group
Sponsored Links

Coordinates
DMS Coor. 45°55´57"N, 7°46´31"E
Swiss Coor. 626105 / 86842
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Breithorn, Breithorn Central, Breithorn East, Breithorn Gendarme, Breithorn-Liskamm Group, Castor, Mezzalama Hut, Monte Rosa Hut, Pollux, Rossi and Volante Bivouac, Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Hut(s) Rossi and Volante Bivouac
Topo. Map SLK 1348: Zermatt
Easiest Route Rating F F
Map
Roccia Nera (Switzerland )
Roccia Nera
Roccia Nera
StartStart

This page is about Roccia Nera on the Breithorn massif. For other uses see Breithorn (disambiguation).

Contents

[edit] General information

The Roccia Nera (German: Schwarzfluh and meaning Black Rock in Italian) (4,075 m) is a minor summit in the Pennine Alps, on the boundary between Valle d'Aoste (northern Italy) and Valais, Switzerland.

[edit] Geology

This is the most easterly summit of the Breithorn peaks and overlooks the Schwarztor to its SE. It is mostly rock (hence the name Black Rock), providing some pleasant sunny routes on its S side but much more austere and demanding ones on compact rock on the N face.

The Rossi and Volante Bivouac is placed near of this summit and it's the point of the beginning of the traverse of the full ridge. The traverse is possible as well from the main summit but it's less popular.

[edit] Climbing history

The south-east ridge was completed by G. Crespi with E. and G. Frachey on 28 July 1941.

The north wall was first climbed by F. Cerbelloni with E. and O. Frachey on 8. Aug 1952.

The north wall - via del gran diedro ghiacciato was first done by M. Bernardi and G. Grassi on 11 May 1980. The first winter ascent here was by A. Jaccod and R. Nicco on 12 March 1982.

The first ascent of the north-east wall was done by L. Castiglia, P. Giglio and R. Rosso on 11/12 July 1982.

[edit] Routes

Roccia Nera S routes; red: SW flank; cyan: SE ridge
Roccia Nera N routes; blue: Via del Gran Diedro Ghiaciatto; green: N wall; pink: NE wall

[edit] South-West Flank (F)

Used as an approach for the traverse of the Breithorn and as an easy descent route from the climbs of the faces.


Roccia Nera: South-West Flank (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Roccia Nera (4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
)
Valley base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type Snow (1 h) Hut Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles
12,303.15 ft
)
Difficulty Rating F F Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)


From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac climb to the top of the rognon on which the hut stands and then straight up the snow slope to the crest of the ridge (possibly a cornice) and then follow E to the summit. (1h)

[edit] North Wall - Via del Gran Diedro Ghiacciato (TD+)

Another fine climb by Grassi with some very demanding mixed terrain. The route follows the line of the massive dièdre formed by the N face of the Roccia Nera and the NE face of Pt. 4,106 m.


Roccia Nera: North Wall - Via del Gran Diedro Ghiacciato (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Roccia Nera (4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
)
Valley base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type Snow and Rock, 80°, VI (10 h) Hut Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles
12,303.15 ft
)
Difficulty TD+ TD+ Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)


From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac contour to the Schwarztor and descend the Schwärze Glacier before contouring L under the N face. Start somewhat R of the fall-line from the dièdre, cross the bergschrund and climb the steep snow and ice slope above to reach mixed grounds at its top. Slant Lwards up this for 70m (65°) to the edge of an ice slope (60°) leading in turn, in about 1 pitch, to the bottom of the massive dièdre. Climb the bed of the dièdre with difficulty (VI) for 30m to a belay below a steep goulotte. Climb this (1 pitch, mostly 65-70° with steps of 80°). Next climb some icy blocks before a delicate Lwards traverse and a steep ice slope lead to a belay in 35m. Now slant up L to below a very steep goulotte. Climb it (70°, difficult mixed climbing) to its termination and then move Rwards to a detached block and belay (70m). Further mixed climbing leads L now to the foot of the final section. Climb this for 40m (80°) to the less steep ground and exit through the (usually easy) cornice. (10h)

[edit] North Wall (TD)

A very notable ascent for the time considering the equipment available to climbers of that epoch. A very exposed route with difficulties on both ice and rock. Take care to note the state of the cornice at the top since this can prevent exit from the route.


Roccia Nera: North Wall (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Roccia Nera (4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
)
Valley base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type Snow and Rock (8 h) Hut Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles
12,303.15 ft
)
Difficulty Rating TD TD Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)


From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac contour to the Schwarztor and descend the Schwärze Glacier before contouring L under the N face. Cross the bergschrund and climb the steep snow and ice slope to reach the face a little to the R of the summit fall-line where a shallow ice couloir slants up L. Get into the couloir via snowy rocks and a traverse L and then climb it steeply until it narrows. Climb the narrow section with some difficulty and then follow the rocks forming a crest on the side of the couloir as far as a system of slabs. Climb these more easily for a few pitches to reach a snowy ledge and move L into the centre of the wall. Climb two pitches more or less straight up to finally reach the short snow slope below the cornice. Cross this and overcome the cornice, possibly by tunnelling. (8h)

[edit] North-East Wall (TD)

The first ascent party used artificial aid to climb the lower overhanging wall but the route was free climbed one day later by G. Grassi and I. Meneghin and the description given is for the climb to be done in this mode. The upper part follows a rounded rib.


Roccia Nera: North-East Wall (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Roccia Nera (4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
)
Valley base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type Snow and Rock, 70°, III - V (7 - 8 h) Hut Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles
12,303.15 ft
)
Difficulty Rating TD TD Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)


From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac contour to the Schwarztor and descend the Schwärze Glacier before contouring L under the N face. Climb the steep snow and ice slope to reach the face just R of the overhanging part. Start up some slanting slabs to the foot of a dièdre (40m, IV-). Climb the dièdre for 15 m (V), move L on to the ice and then follow snow and rock to a belay at the bottom of a very steep crack on the L at the top of the dièdre.

Now traverse L and climb another dièdre/chimney (V) by bridging or back and footing. Continue on mixed terrain from the top of the dièdre moving Rwards at first and then straight up an ice slope before finally moving L again across a very steep slope, thus avoiding a prominent rock band. Large blocks form a belay point. Continue the Lwards traverse for a few more m and then climb a narrow, icy goulotte (70°) to cross a rock barrier. Now climb Rwards in a small couloir until a traverse L across an ice slope leads to the crest of the rib overlooking the lower part of the face.

Climb the rib (IV and IV+) to some terraces and then a pitch up easier ground at first (III) and then a vertical crack (IV and IV+) to reach a vertical wall. Cross a short couloir Lwards and climb a secondary narrow rib (III, IV and V) to gain a small icy couloir. Climb this to reach the top of the vertical wall. Next climb a rib to gain the bottom of a narrow goulotte. Climb this (65-70° at its steepest) before moving Rwards to another couloir which leads back L towards the crest of the rib. Climb the couloir for 30m before making a delicate traverse L over mixed ground to regain the crest.

Another step in the rib is avoided on the R, by snow and then a slab, before continuing on the crest to a slab on the R. Climb this (IV+) and continue on the crest until it steepens again. A traverse L across icy slabs gives access to some easy ramps which lead in about a rope's length to the final short snow slope. The cornice should be easy to overcome. (7-8h)

Further L, starting in the angle between the main wall and a large flying buttress, G. Grassi and E. Tessera, 3 July 1983, climbed a route (Via Peraice) with a first pitch steepening to 90°. It is only likely to be climbable in winter or early in the summer season.

[edit] South-East Ridge (D+)

An attractive (mostly) rock climb at high altitude, another product of the Frachey brothers. The route described starts on the SE face and gains the ridge at a prominent, usually snowy shoulder. It has pitches of IV and V with the odd pull on a peg. Carry some pitons in case of verglas.


Roccia Nera: South-East Ridge (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Roccia Nera (4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
)
Valley base(s) Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type Snow and Rock, III - V (4 h) Hut Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles
12,303.15 ft
)
Difficulty D+ D+ Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)


From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac contour to the Schwarztor and descend the Swiss side until the snowy shoulder on the SE ridge. Start 50m R of the short couloir with a rock rib on its E side and climb 3 pitches more or less straight up (IV). Alternatively climb the rib on the E side of the couloir for 3 pitches (III and IV). Some easier but possibly mixed terrain now leads to the crest of the ridge close to the snowy shoulder.

Continue up the ridge over some sort of overhang (steps of IV+) until below a more distinctive overhang. This is climbed on R (V, several pitons in place) usually with a bit of aid. Above, some short slabs (IV+) lead to a final snow crest. (4h)

[edit] Traverse of the Breithorn (AD)

Coming soon

[edit] Overview

Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps
Roccia Nera: South-West Flank 4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
BF 1 Snow Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt Rossi and Volante Bivouac 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
1348
Roccia Nera: North Wall - Via del Gran Diedro Ghiacciato 4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
NTD+ 10 Snow and Rock VI 80 Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt Rossi and Volante Bivouac 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
1348
Roccia Nera: North Wall 4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
MTD 8 Snow and Rock Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt Rossi and Volante Bivouac 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
1348
Roccia Nera: North-East Wall 4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
MTD 7-8 Snow and Rock III-V 70 Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt Rossi and Volante Bivouac 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
1348
Roccia Nera: South-East Ridge 4,075 m2.532 miles
13,369.423 ft
KD+ 4 Snow and Rock III-V Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt Rossi and Volante Bivouac 325 m0.202 miles
1,066.273 ft
1348

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

[edit] Additional photos

[edit] Recommended books

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

      Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

      Valais West: Zinal - Arolla - Verbier - Rhone Valley (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber & Hans Steinbichler

  • You can click the images to get a bigger image of the front cover!
  • We offer you a direct deeplink to Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de to buy the book. Amazon is the biggest online store in the world and offers a safe environment to buy anything you want.

Switzerland portal
Personal tools
Writing an article
Social links
Translate
Sponsors