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Monte Rosa
Pointe Dufour (fr)
Punta Dufour (it)

Photo of the Dufourspitze
Dufourspitze as seen from Schwärze Glacier

Elevation 4,634 m15,203.412 ft
2.879 miles
Prominence 2,165 m1.345 miles
7,103.018 ft
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Monte Rosa
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DMS Coor. 45°56´12.6"N, 7°52´1.4"E
Swiss Coor. 633229 / 87340
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Balmenhorn, Balmenhorn Bivouac, Belloni Bivouac, Città di Gallarate Bivouac, Corno Nero, Grenzgipfel, Grenzsattel, Gugliermina Bivouac, Liskamm East, Ludwigshöhe, Margherita Hut, Marinelli Bivouac, Monte Rosa, Nordend, Ostspitze, Parrotspitze, Resegotti Bivouac, Signalkuppe, Silbersattel, Zumsteinspitze
Alpinist's Info
Topo. Map SLK 1348: Zermatt
Easiest Route {{{{}}}}
Dufourspitze (Switzerland )


[edit] General Information

Dufourspitze (Dufour Peak , Pointe Dufour, Punta Dufour or Monte Rosa) is a mountain of the Monte Rosa Massif in the Pennine Alps. With its 4,634 m summit, it is the second highest mountain in the Alps and western Europe and the highest of the Pennine Alps. Its 2,470 m eastern wall is also the tallest in the Alps and its western side is covered by the Görner Glacier, the second largest in the Alps. The peak is located in the canton of Valais in the municipality of Zermatt. The Monte Rosa Massif is a mountain range lying on the border between Italy and Switzerland and composed of several summits over 4500 metres.

[edit] Routes

The most popular route on the Dufourspitze starts from the Monte Rosa Hut, but the mountain can also be climbed from Italy as it lies very close to the border. When climbed from the Italian side one can stay overnight in the Gnifetti Hut. The way up on the Monte Rosa massif starts in the town of Zermatt. In the middle of town one can take the Gornergratbahn/ train up to Rotenboden mountain train station. There is an excellent path going down towards the Gorner glacier/ Grenz glacier. Time used before reaching the Monte Rosa hut is about five hours. Sign posting is good, aswell on the glacier.

[edit] Normal route, II (AD+)

The normal route starts from the Monte Rosa hut. Best starting time is four O'clock in the morning. One follows piles of stones created by climbers towards south east. After two hours one will reach the Monte Rosa glacier and when arriving on a flat terrain, the Obere Plattje. This glacier section has plenty of cracks so one needs to pay an extra detail for it. From here one continues towards east and starts ascending between two ridges. When a wider terrain opens the snow path turns also towards right but one should continue straight towards south. This path is also called the Silber Sattel path and on the left side one can see the Nordend mountain. Ascending is easy all the way up on the saddle. One also turns towards right when ascending but it is best to keep optima towards the left side of the visible ridges belonging to Dufourspitze. After one has now done II degree walk up one needs to change to much more difficult category, also AD+. This means climbing on the nortface which is 150 m high. There is support ropes, but just in case there has been more snow or tiny avalanches it is good to have own rope. It is quite a disappointment to return as one is now next to the highest mountain of Switzerland ! Rock surface is flat and slippery and not easy to climb. This is about face climbing, even there is support ropes. One needs to be physically fit and remember that climbing down can be as difficult as going up. Finally on the top...Zumsteinspitze at the south side and Nordend at the north side. One can also see other famous mountains like ;Matterhorn, Weisshorn and the Italian Alps. One can easily eat and drink on the top. Descending back the northface is still a challenging task. One can get it more secure if attaching some cord round the support rope, which is tied to ones carabinier. One can naturally belay down, which is quicker. After have managed the climbing section it is easy descending towards Obere Plattje. Here one needs to look for possible holes in the glacier, because afternoon sun opens it with heath. Finally in the hut or some camping. A great climb on Alps !

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[edit] Additional photos

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