Col Durand

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Col Durand

Photo of the Col Durand
Col Durand, Pointe de Zinal and Col de Zinal (N face)

Elevation 3,451 m11,322.178 ft
2.144 miles
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Weisshorn Group
Between Mont Durand
Pointe de Zinal
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DMS Coor. 46°1´48"N, 7°38´23"E
Swiss Coor. 615551 / 97597
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Arben Bivouac, Col de la Dent Blanche Bivouac, Dent Blanche, Mont Durand, Ober Gabelhorn, Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group), Wellenkuppe
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Anniviers, Zermatt, Zinal
Hut(s) Grand Mountet Hut, Schönbiel Hut
Topo. Map SLK 1347: Matterhorn
Easiest Route Rating F F
Col Durand (Switzerland )
Col Durand
Col Durand


General information

The Col Durand (3,451 m11,322.178 ft
2.144 miles
) is a pass in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland. This pass was first crossed in 1859 by G. and W. Matthews with M. Charlet, J.-B. Croz and J. Vianin.

The pass is situated betweenn the Pointe de Zinal and Mont Durand and provides a crossing point between the Grand Mountet Hut and the Schönbiel Hut and ultimately between Zinal and Zermatt. The N side is quite steep towards the top and is often icy. There may also be a difficult bergschrund on this side but a way past this can usually be found.


South Side (F)

Col Durand: South Side (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Col Durand (3,451 m2.144 miles
11,322.178 ft
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
Route Type Snow (2.5 - 3 h) Hut Schönbiel Hut (2,694 m1.674 miles
8,838.583 ft
Difficulty Rating F F Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 757 m0.47 miles
2,483.596 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1086 m0.675 miles
3,562.992 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 1843 m1.145 miles
6,046.588 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1347: Matterhorn (Maps)

From the Schönbiel Hut follow the path leading NNW for a few min. Take the first branch R which climbs a steep grassy slope into the combe named Kumme. Climb the combe (cairned track) in a fairly direct line towards the L end of a ramp leading to the col at its head. Follow the ramp to the col and on its E side follow a continuation track slanting down on to the Hohwäng Glacier at Pt. 3,150 m. Climb the R (W) bank of the glacier passing close to the bottom of the rock rib marked Pt. 3,312 m before turning NNE to reach the col. There may be some large crevasses near the rock rib.

North Side (PD)

Col Durand: North Side (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Col Durand (3,451 m2.144 miles
11,322.178 ft
Valley base(s) Anniviers, Zinal
Route Type Snow (2.5 - 3 h) Hut Grand Mountet Hut (2,886 m1.793 miles
9,468.504 ft
Difficulty Rating PD PD Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 565 m0.351 miles
1,853.675 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1347: Matterhorn, SLK 1327: Evolène (Maps)

From the Mountet Hut follow a track S on to the Mountet Glacier. The aim is to climb the Durand Glacier combe but to avoid crevasses do this by moving in an arc, at first heading SSE and finishing by heading SW. In this way reach the snow rib which extends SSW from the Roc Noir and climb this to the upper plateau of the glacier. Now head as direct as possible to the col, the actual direction being dictated by the position at which the bergschrund can be crossed. The slope above the bergschrund is usually quite steep for a few m and can be icy.


Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps
Col Durand: North Side 3,451 m2.144 miles
11,322.178 ft
DPD 2.5-3 Snow Anniviers, Zinal Grand Mountet Hut 565 m0.351 miles
1,853.675 ft
1347, 1327
Col Durand: South Side 3,451 m2.144 miles
11,322.178 ft
BF 2.5-3 Snow Zermatt Schönbiel Hut 757 m0.47 miles
2,483.596 ft

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

Recommended books

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

      Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

      Valais West: Zinal - Arolla - Verbier - Rhone Valley (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber & Hans Steinbichler

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